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Despite large numbers of visitors overwhelming its small streets, Trastevere’s soul still exists, and it can be found in Piazza di San Calisto. Bordered by splendid, sixteenth-century edifices, and hidden behind hedges of laurel, you will find Bar San Calisto, the beating heart of the neighborhood. The interior has remained…

Tucked behind the two medieval towers in Monti (Capocci tower and Graziani tower) and framed by the 19th century street of Via Lanza, you will find Rocco. This classic Roman restaurant is newly re-opened, and thankfully not a victim to the “hip” aesthetic homogenization that has swept Monti in recent…